Asia craved colors…
The booming economies of the 1980s and 1990s, with the rise of South-East Asian “Dragons” and “Tigers”, meant that businesses and infrastructures were springing out of the ground from Hong Kong to Bangkok and from Seoul to Djakarta like mushrooms after the rain. Besides the urban landscapes, other changes were on their way. Theregion’s Gen-Xers, departing from the frugal way of life and Confucian values of their Baby Boomer parents, embraced consumerism and individualism.
Gone were the grey or blue dress pants and white short sleeve shirts that made tropical Asia’s urban crowds monotonous in their uniform quest for understated elegance. The new urban Asia, in search of new ways to express individuality craved Fashion.
Of course, the potential market for casual clothing and sportswear did not go unnoticed by the global players: BENETTON, LEVI’s, LACOSTE, MEXX and their European or North American counterparts did not hesitate in setting foot in the trendy shopping malls that blossomed all over Asia’s metropolises. Endorsed by global stars as the symbols of a new body conscious generation, the Western textile brands appeared as symbols of a new era.
Riding the fashion train in economy class
As well as symbols of a new cultural era, these foreign brands were also – because of a lower purchasing power – symbols of wealth. Their mid-range pricing of European and North American brands translated in quasi-luxury price-tags in the emerging Asian economies.
How would Asian youths satisfy their need for fashion? The answer came from Hong Kong. Several corporations from the British Colony set shop to distribute trendy colorful casual clothing in the 1980s and 1990s: the best known are CHAN Sun’s CROCODILE, Michael TIEN’s G2000 and U2, and of course the “Italianesque” trio of GIORDANO(website), BOSSINI(website) and BALENO(website).
The three brands were founded in the 1980s and now boast thousands of retail shops in Asia and the world, with GIORDANO present in the Caribbean and BOSSINI and BALENO having shops in the Middle East. However, being absent from Europe and North America, these three brands cannot claim a global presence.
Why Italian?
As the icon of fashionable casual wear in the 80-90s, BENETTON(website), founded in 1965, was the most likely brand to be emulated by the new Asian brands. Italian sounding names was the first step to create brands that would tap on the aspirational value of European tag names.
The strategy that dictated the choice of “Italianesque” brand names is basically about Brand personality. Global stereotypes present Italy as the motherland of elegance, fashion and dolce vita, attributes that suit the target of casual wear. By alluding to the image of Italy as the country of casual elegance, the Hong Kong firms embedded the same values in their products, enhancing their appeal to the Asian youth.
It might be interesting to explore the post-colonial overtones of self-representation in Asian countries that endured long European or North American rules. The preeminent position of Eurasian models, imparting a “glocal” feel on the ads they grace with their mixed race physique, is a strong clue in that regard. However, the public’s reaction to these advertising is generally one of acceptance, with people stating that Caucasians are “tall” enough to be models, while Asians are generally shorter.
Of course, almost no one in the consumer target of GIORDANO, BOSSINI and BALENO is convinced that these brands are really Italian. Well traveled youths know that their reach is more regional than global. The fact that BALENO chose the Hong Kong “resident Dorian Gray” Andy LAU as its poster boy is a direct indication that these brands somehow embrace their Asian identity. The presence of Asian models on the posters decorating the GIORDANO stores is another example.
GIORDANO Going Global…
Embracing both Asia and globalization is indeed the strategy chosen by GIORDANO, with its tagline : “World Without Strangers”. Increasingly using the “WWS” acronym might hint at the possible rise of a new Brand breaking from its Italianesque reference.
In fact, breaking away from Italian references is just what Italian icon BENETTON has done by creating it’s own “Britannesque” brand, SISLEY (website) to complement the BENNETON product line with edgier designs. No wonder Asian brands now emulate their mentor…
Copyright – Alfred LARGANGE – November 2006
